Art de Vivre

MARTIN MARGIELA: THE FACELESS DESIGNER

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Report on the exhibition which takes place at the Palais Galliera of Paris and the promotion of the documentary “We Margiela” , launched last year and presented in preview  at the Fashion Institute of Technology of New York . It’s time to celebrate the thirty-year career of the designer who, without showing his face to the media, destructurated and restructurated the beauty standards.

 

Exhibition Margiela / Galliera open to the public from 3 March until 15 July 2018 at the Musée de la mode Galliera, Rue de Galliera 75016, Paris.

Full panorama on the thirty years of activity of the Designer, the very first retrospective taking place in Paris dedicated to Martin Margiela showcases, through objects, projections, installations and more than a hundred clothes a chronological reconstruction of the innovative and revolutionary work of the Belgian artist from 1989 to 2009.

Margiela studied at the Royal Academy of Fine Arts of Antwerp and launched his first collection in the spring/summer of the year 1989 in Paris, the city in which he created his Maison.

Refusing to appear at the end of the defiles to thank the public, he gave only a limited number of interviews, given almost all by distance and avoiding photographers, Margiela made a choice which is diametrically opposed to the competition for notoriety which was typical in the 1990s. Searching to build up customer loyalty rather than loyalty to the founder, he earned the title of legend of the fashion world.

Getting away from the beauty standards of the time, he starts with the destructuration of the clothes, reveals their interior, the stitching, the hems, the linings, the braces and will keep on this way putting forward the conceptual approach that had never been adopted before in the world of fashion. We discover some games of proportions such as in the “Oversize” or “Barbie” collections in which he readapts the clothes of the most famous doll in the world and makes them unwearable.

In the collections Margiela Artisanal, the designer leads the look of high fashion in a avant-gardist way towards the possibility to create unique clothes made of collected materials. For the serie “Replica” the stylist reproduces with a stupefying accuracy a range of clothes coming from each part of the world.

In order to know the story of the Maison in details and get a new vision into the stylist’s work, it’s necessary to watch the documentary “We Margiela” which results from the interviews made by the closest collaborators of the designer which offer a more precise point of view on the revolutionary and conceptual contribution he brought to the fashion system.

A book with the same title of the docufilm will be published in the next months and will be made up of the integral version of the interviews made by collaborators, by the co-founder Jenny Meirens who recently left us, the directors, the clients and the partners. The illustrations will be photographs of the film’s making of which have never been released before.

An experience that changes nothing is hardly worth having.

Martin Margiela

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