Saint Laurent often said that in fashion nothing is truly “new”, everything is already been made before at least one hundred times. It’s more important to give the new generations the possibility to wear a different age, trying to recall those years.
In this way he used to answer to all the critics that “the Scandal Collection” received in the 1971, signing the revolution of fashion which is still not finished: the invention of the retro style.
From last heir of French Haute Couture to Revolutionist, Yves Saint Laurent subverted the codes of a bourgeois fashion which didn’t allow many garments to women and started his own personal Revolution of costume.
Everybody knows that Yves had not an active political life, so he didn’t join the demonstrations and strikes of ’68 that trembled Paris and the entire World, but still he absorbed those changes and tried to make something sensational.
The Libèration Collection was, indeed, sensational. The models were inspired by the wars’ years: knee-lenght skirts, platform shoes, turbans and heavy make-up.
Recall a past age was something nobody had done before; all the brilliance of Monsieur Saint Laurent has been revealed, opening the door to a new concept of fashion.
Every masterpiece has his muse, in that case she was Paloma Picasso, friend of Yves who, because of financial difficulties, could buy only ’30-’40 clothes from flea markets. From this an unstoppable social and costume phenomenon started.
The career of Saint Laurent from that moment on was marked by this ambiguity, the retro-look become definition of his style, adding itself to the fashion world. Today retrospection is necessary as far as creation’s renovation is concerned, otherwise there would be no renewal.